Singapore's Utopian Vision

Last week, my husband and I decided to stop through Singapore for a few days before making our way to Thailand. Before our visit, my total knowledge of Singapore was that it was a modern, sovereign city-state and had been featured in an episode of Planet Earth 2. Coming from Bali, we were in for a culture shock as we entered back into the first world bubble. Upon arrival, we made our way through a swanky airport filled with designer brands and trendy restaurants. After picking up our luggage, it took approximately two minutes for a Grab driver to be out front ready to take us to our hostel. Our drive into the night made for a classic metropolitan scene, filled with bright lights, modern skyscrapers, and wide highways. At first glance, it felt a lot like any major city in America.

Then daylight came.

My experience in Singapore can best be described as if living through an aspiring utopia, knowing full well that there is no such thing. First, let me introduce you to the setting. Imagine a city so immaculate, that there is no sign of trash, graffiti, or even construction...and you know there is always construction in a city. The main part of the capital is split into four distinct areas. First, you have Chinatown, which looks like every other Chinatown throughout the world, except with no litter. Stepping off the transit, you are greeted with hundreds of Chinese-Singaporeans hustling throughout the streets. The shops and restaurants are decorated in red and trimmed with a string of golden lanterns along the pathways. Next, you have the central business district; a cluster of silver skyscrapers and one iconic modern statue overlooking Marina Bay. Think Wall Street or the City of London. What kind of dystopia would this be without our opulent headquarters? Then we have Little India, which feels a bit less organized than the other regions. Bright, colorful arches span the lively, center street and the air is filled with the smells of delicious curry. And lastly, we have Sentosa Island! Think Orlando, Florida ladies and gentleman. The land of tourism, tourism, tourism! Sentosa Island has nature safaris, beach resorts, golf courses, and of course, Universal Studios. It is literally referred to as the state of FUN.

Now for our backstory. Singapore gained its independence in 1965 and quickly emerged as THE global hub for transport, trade, and manufacturing. With this newfound prosperity, Singapore entered first world status and began to shape into the futuristic city-state it is known as today. A significant part of this transition was due to the limitations of internal democracy. As a sovereign state, Singapore has an authoritarian style of governance. And here folks is where things get interesting...the utopian vision. The Singapore model refers to the ethos behind the country’s governing success. It has been described as "a state that enshrines order at the expenses of liberty." The intentions of the Singaporean government are far more visible and honest in comparison to countries such as the United States. The laws put in place have successfully made Singapore one of the safest, cleanest, and greenest nations. In fact, Singapore has been positively recognized as one of the least corrupt nations in the world by Transparency International. That’s quite the accomplishment!

As a tourist, I too recognized the perks of Singapore. I never had to walk through the stench of cigarette smoke. The transit system was fast, clean, and effective. The infrastructure of the city made it super easy to walk around and take it all in. At night, I never once felt afraid. In fact, I never encountered a police officer. My most awestruck moment was during my visit to the Gardens By The Bay. I have never seen a design so beautiful. These striking “Supertrees” are actually vertical gardens filled with a variety of plants, creating the most stunning scenery. The trees use solar power to light up at night and to support the cooling systems in the indoor conservatories of the nature park. The engineering behind this place is absolutely brilliant. Walking throughout these gardens made me stop a dozen times and think “Why does this not exist everywhere?”. Through a certain perspective, Singapore has successfully addressed critical issues such as racial segregation, climate change, and crime, all clear signs of a progressive society. The country's government takes the role as the caring parent, knowing what's best for the children.

Throughout our stay, we learned a lot more about the ways in which the city is so well kept. The first encounter was through our Grab driver. About ten minutes into our journey she went off on a rant about the exceptionally high prices of cars in Singapore. Citizens who want to drive must first purchase a certificate of entitlement every ten years which can range from $20,000-$30,000, not including the price of the car. The reason for this requirement is due to the lack of road space and increase in population. The goal is to deter people from driving, keeping the city roads manageable. Again, the intention of this decision is one that derives from a utilitarian ideal, helping the greater good. Even so, a very expensive intention. Some other costly rules? Spitting is a $300 fine. Chewing gum is banned and will result in a $1000 penalty. Homosexual relations results in two years in prison. Painting or drawing on public property results in guaranteed jail time as well as a caning (corporal punishment). In fact, caning is condoned in schools for serious misbehaviors. Singapore has even gone as far as to penalize those who do not flush the toilet, so don’t even think about it!

Here is where my heart breaks a bit. I learned through a local that all Singaporeans are required to take part in the military or police force before attending university. I know that this is not entirely unusual. Many countries also implement this law. However, there was something about this local’s story that left a profound effect on me. He explained that during his first year on the police force, his partner stopped an older man who was doing nothing wrong except for the fact that he just looked a bit odd. It turned out the old man’s immigration papers were false, and he had been scammed. The old man broke into tears explaining that he came to find better work and send home money to his family. The result? The young 18-year-old boy watched as his partner arrested the old man and, at that point, the boy realized he had just ruined someone’s life. More disturbingly, he had absolutely no desire to do so. That story sends chills down my spine as I imagine all of the people who have experienced tragic arrests such as this or had to deal with the repercussions of onsite suicide reports because a state has enforced them to do so. The most distressing part of it all is that so many of these young people don’t actually believe in what they are enforcing. I struggle with the moralities of this particular law, and I look at the United States and fear just as much. We have a system where people sign up willingly and go through training to be admitted. Even so, there is an element of the police force that clearly abuses power, showing evident signs of being “too” invested in the enforcement, and significant bias. This results in horrific crimes based on factors such as discrimination and racism. I don’t like either.

On our last day, we stumbled upon a tiny little craft beer shop. Tristan and I both indulged in an absurdly overpriced, but delicious, IPA and sat in the rain listening to a low key DJ. There were about 20 people total, immersed in conversation, smiling, nodding to the tunes, and seemingly happy. As we drank our beers, we realized that this was the first moment we felt like we were in something authentically real. With all of Singapore’s regulations, it lacks what makes any city have its charm. Singapore has no public art, no controversy, no crazy, no quirks, no soul. Through its desired perfection, it is left feeling sterile. People go to New York to be overwhelmed by the noise, pace, creativity, and smell. They go to see controversial off-broadway plays and stare at provacative graffiti. Through its rawness and grime, the city creates an undeniable beauty. Singapore, for all of its good intentions, suppresses the development of unique culture. The irony hits hard in the country’s slogan “Passion Made Possible”. The dystopian underbelly reveals itself.

Singapore is indeed a fascinating place to analyze. It challenged me to think about what an appropriate amount of “government control” looks like. In so many ways, the country is technically doing right by its people as well as our world. It’s paved the way for creating garden cities, safety, and strikingly low unemployment rates. But have these accomplishments created a place of happiness? Can people feel oppressed if their lives are not in immediate danger or destitute? I believe yes. For all of the horrors that come with our freedoms, such as the West Boro Baptist Church, the election of Trump, and terrible pop music (I kid, I kid) they still feel liberating. Passion, innovation, and creativity evolve from the imperfections of our society. To have a choice, whether it be bad or a good, is so vital to what defines us as people. It gives us our own sense of control or sometimes lack thereof.

My experience in Singapore was strange, new, and deeply insightful. Final thought...Singapore has truly developed a place of harmonious social order, but by doing so it seems to have stripped away the best part of life...the possibility of spontaneity. For all its surface beauty, it lacks that special something that keeps people coming to the great cities of the world like New York and London, despite the absurd rent, grimy streets, and risk of crime. While certainly not lawless, those cities allow enough freedom for people to bump up against each other, and it’s in that friction that the real magic and beauty of a great city are born. Perhaps that kind of sterility is the price that has to be paid for a society that looks so good on paper, but if that is the case, I think I’ll take the occasional piece of old gum on my shoe in exchange for a city that has some life to it.

#Asia #travel